Akụkọ na pịa

Sid Vicious agaghị ekweta ego ole uwe ochie ya bara nakwa na ndị na-ere ahịa adịgboroja ga-agbasi mbọ ike ka ha wepụta ha.
N'oge na-adịbeghị anya, onye ọkọ akụkọ ihe mere eme pop nke dabeere na London bụ Paul Gorman, onye dere akwụkwọ akụkọ The Life and Times of Malcolm McLaren: A Biography, na Rock Fashion auctioneer Paul Gorman nwetara mpempe nke Marr. Uwe nke Malcolm McLaren.Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries label, ihe dịka 1977, maka nleba anya.
Emere ya site na muslin ma nwee ihe ngosi ozugbo nke onye na-ese ihe bụ Jamie Reid mere maka aka uwe nke Sex Pistols '' Anarchy in the UK '' otu.
Ọ bụrụ na ọ bụ eziokwu, ọ ga-enweta ọnụ ahịa mara mma na ọrịre. N'ahịa ahịa Bonhams na May, e rere uwe elu parachute Mr. McLaren na Ms. Westwood nke 1977 maka $6,660, yana sweta mohair ojii na-acha uhie uhie na-adịghị ahụkebe nke ejiri okpokoro isi na akwa. crossbones na "Pstols Mmekọahụ" Ọ dịghị Ọdịnihu "Lyrics" na-ere maka $8,896.
Agbanyeghị, Maazị Gorman ekwetaghị na uwe elu ọ na-enyocha bụ ihe onye nwe ya kwuru.
Maazị Gorman kwuru, sị: “Ndị Alakụba adịla ochie n'ebe ụfọdụ.” Ma n'ebe ọzọ, akwa ahụ ka dị ọhụrụ. Ink ahụ abụghị ogo 1970 ma ọ gbasaghị n'ime akwa ahụ. " A jụrụ ya banyere ihe ngosi ahụ, onye na-ere ere wepụrụ mpempe akwụkwọ ahụ n'ụlọ ahịa ahụ wee kwuo na e rere ya na nzuzo.
Nabata na ụwa dị egwu na nke na-enye nnukwu ego nke punk adịgboroja. N'ime afọ 30 gara aga, na-eme ka a na-eji aka ya mee ya na nhazi mbụ nke gụnyere S-na-M na eserese ruru unyi, mkpụcha ọhụrụ na eriri, usoro nchịkọta agha, tweeds na latex - Sid Vicious na ndị ọgbọ ya na Anarchy Ihe a ma ama n'oge echiche - aghọwo ụlọ ọrụ na-eto eto.
Steven Philip, onye na-edebe ihe ochie, onye na-anakọta na onye ndụmọdụ kwuru, sị: “Ana m enweta ozi ịntanetị ọtụtụ ọnwa kwa ọnwa na-ajụ ma ọ̀ dị ihe dị adị.” Agaghị m etinye aka na ya. Ndị mmadụ na-azụta ọla edo ndị nzuzu. A na-enwekarị adịgboroja 500 maka nke bụ eziokwu. "
Ruo ọkara narị afọ, Mr McLaren na Ms Westwood emeghewo ụlọ ahịa counterculture ha, Let It Rock, na 430 King's Road, London. Ụlọ ahịa ahụ, nke a na-akpọ ugbu a dị ka Worlds End, bụ ebe ọmụmụ nke ejiji okporo ụzọ. Ndị nwe ya bụ ndị na-emepụta ihe kọwara. ihe nkiri punk.
N'ime afọ 10 sochirinụ, a gbanwere ụlọ ahịa ahụ ka ọ bụrụ Mmekọahụ na Ndị Sedition, na-ewebata ọdịdị na ụda nke nwere mmetụta dị ukwuu ma bụrụ nke a na-achịkọta.” Ihe ndị na-alụbeghị di na-adị ụkọ n'ihi ọtụtụ ihe,” ka Alexander Fury, onye edemede na-ekwu. nke "Vivienne Westwood Catwalk." "Oge mmepụta ha dị mkpụmkpụ, uwe ndị ahụ dị oke ọnụ, ndị mmadụ na-azụkwa ha ma na-eyi ha ruo mgbe ha dara."
Onye isi nka nka Dior na Fendi, Kim Jones, nwere ọtụtụ ọrụ izizi wee kwenye na “Westwood na McLaren mepụtara ụkpụrụ maka uwe ọgbara ọhụrụ. Ha bụ ndị ọhụụ,” ka o kwuru.
Ọtụtụ ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie na-anakọta ihe ndị a. Michael Costiff, onye na-elekọta mmadụ, onye na-emepụta ime ụlọ na onye nlekọta nke World Archives for Dover Street Market Stores, bụ onye ahịa mbụ nke Mr. McLaren na Ms. Westwood. Ekike 178 ọ gbakọtara na nwunye ya, Gerlinde. nọ ugbu a na mkpokọta Victoria na Albert Museum, nke zụtara mkpokọta Mr Costiff na 2002 maka £42,500 site na National Art Collection Fund.
Uru nke vintage McLaren na Westwood na-eme ka ha bụrụ ndị a na-eche maka ndị omekome ejiji. N'ebe kachasị anya, ihe atụ dị na ntanetị na-ere ya ozugbo na ọnụ ala, na-enweghị aghụghọ - naanị ihe osise a maara nke ọma na t-shirt dị mfe.
Paul Stolper, onye na-ese ihe na London nke ọtụtụ ọrụ punk mbụ dị ugbu a na Metropolitan Museum of Art kwuru, "Onyinye ma ọ bụ abụọ sitere na oge ụfọdụ, dị ka Che Guevara ma ọ bụ Marilyn, na-ejedebe site na omenala anyị. Pistols mmekọahụ na-akọwa oge, yabụ na a na-emepụtagharị ihe oyiyi mgbe niile. "
Mgbe ahụ enwere adịgboroja doro anya karị, dị ka T-shirt dị ọnụ ala Mkpụrụ nke Loom nke na-egosipụta Mickey Mouse akpọgidere n'obe, ma ọ bụ $190 "SEX original" nke dị mkpụmkpụ nke si A Store Robot na Tokyo nke na-adị mfe ịmata dị ka ndị na-abụghị nke mbụ, N'ihi ákwà ọhụrụ ahụ na eziokwu ahụ bụ na ọ dịghị mgbe e mere ụdị a n'ezie na 1970. A na-ejupụta ahịa ndị Japan na fakes.
N'afọ gara aga, Mr Gorman chọtara uwe a na-akpọ "Vintage Seditionaries Vivienne Westwood 'Charlie Brown' White T-Shirt" na eBay na UK, nke ọ zụtara dị ka ihe ọmụmụ maka £ 100 (ihe dịka $ 139).
O kwuru, sị: “Ọ bụ ihe atụ na-akpali mmasị nke ime adịgboroja.” Ọ dịghị mgbe ọ dị. Mana mgbakwunye nke okwu 'mbibi' na mwakpo nke ịnwa iji agwa katuun a hụrụ n'anya nke e gosipụtara n'ụzọ omenala na-eduzi ụzọ McLaren na Westwood si bịa. M na-eji ọkachamara ahụ eme ihe Ndị na-ebi akwụkwọ ekwenyela na inks ndị a bụ nke ọgbara ọhụrụ, dịkwa ka nkenke uwe T-shirt. "
Nwanyị di ya nwụrụ Mr McLaren, Young Kim, arụsi ọrụ ike kemgbe ọtụtụ afọ iji chekwaa ihe nketa ya na ihe nketa ya. "Agara m na Museum Metropolitan na 2013 iji nyochaa mkpokọta ha," Nwada King kwuru. ha bụ adịgboroja. Uwe mbụ ahụ dị obere. Malcolm mere ka ha dabara ya na Vivienne. Ọtụtụ uwe ndị dị na Met buru ibu ma dabara na pre-punks nke taa. "
E nwere ihe ịrịba ama ndị ọzọ. Ihe nkedo ahụ dị n'elu eriri akwa, ọ bụghị n'ime ya, dịka ọ ga-adị na uwe a na-eme nke ọma. Na D-mgbanaka dị ọhụrụ. "
Ọrụ dị na Met's 2013 "Punk: From Chaos to Haute Couture" ngosi dọtara uche ụfọdụ mgbe Nwada King na Mr. Gorman kwuputara n'ihu ọha na ebubo ụgha ndị a na-ebo ebubo na ọtụtụ n'ime ihe ngosi ahụ.
Ma enwere ajụjụ gbasara ọrụ nke batara n'ụlọ ngosi ihe mgbe ochie afọ asatọ gara aga. Ihe atụ gụnyere uwe nke ịgba ohu nke pụtara ìhè na 2006 "Anglomania", nke ekwuru na onye na-ere ihe ochie na London bụ Simon Easton, na vintage Westwood na McLaren mgbazinye ụlọ ọrụ Punk. Nchịkọta Pistol, nke nyere ndị stylists na ndị na-ese ihe nkiri, na 2003, Iraqi Mr. Stone na onye ọchụnta ego ya, Gerald Bowey, guzobere ụlọ ngosi ihe ngosi nka na ntanetị.
"N'afọ 2015, mpempe McLaren-Westwood abụọ dị na mkpokọta anyị kpebisiri ike na ha bụ adịgboroja," Andrew Bolton, onye isi nlekọta na Ụlọ Ọrụ Na-ahụ Maka Ejiji Metropolitan kwuru. "E mechara weghachi ọrụ ndị ahụ. Nnyocha anyị na mpaghara a na-aga n'ihu."
Maazị Gorman zigara Mr Bolton ọtụtụ ozi-e nke o kwuru na ọrụ ndị ọzọ na usoro ahụ nwere nsogbu, mana Mr Gorman kwuru na Mr Bolton anabataghị ya. Onye na-ekwuchitere ụlọ ọrụ uwe ejiji kwuru na ndị ọkachamara nyochara iberibe ahụ ihe karịrị otu ugboro. Bolton jụrụ inye nkọwa ọzọ maka edemede a.
Mr Easton, onye na-agaghị ekwu maka akụkọ a, kwuru site na email na Mr Bowie na-ekwu maka ya, mana aha ya enweghị ike ịnwụchapụ na akụkọ punk adịgboroja. N'ime ọtụtụ afọ, saịtị PunkPistol.com ya, bụ nke e debere na 2008, bụ Ọtụtụ ndị na-ele ya anya dị ka ebe nchekwa nchekwa a pụrụ ịdabere na ya maka atụmatụ McLaren mbụ na Westwood.
Agbanyeghị, Maazị Bowie kwuru na n'agbanyeghị mbọ niile ha na-agba iji kwado mkpokọta ahụ, “ụzọ jọgburu onwe ya nke e si chepụta uwe ndị ahụ na mbụ, mepụta na mechaa megharịa ya gbochiri ya. Taa, ọbụlagodi na ndepụta katalọgụ mgbụsị akwụkwọ, nnata na n'ọnọdụ ụfọdụ sitere na asambodo Westwood, uwe ndị a ka na-arụ ụka.”
Na Septemba 9, 2008, e bu ụzọ mara Maazị McLaren maka oke nke wayo gbara ya na Oriakụ Westwood site na ozi-e na-amaghị aha nke Mr. Gorman zipụrụ maka akụkọ a yana nwada Kim gosikwara ya.
“Cheaters wake up to fakes!” reads the subject line, and the sender is only identified as “Minnie Minx” from deadsexpistol@googlemail.com.A number of people from the London fashion industry have been accused of conspiracy in the email, which also refers to a 2008 court case involving Scotland Yard.
"Mgbe akụkọ gasịrị, ndị uwe ojii wakporo ụlọ dị na Croydon na Eastbourne, ebe ha chọtara akwụkwọ mpịakọta nke mkpado," email ahụ kwuru. Nabata Mr Grant Howard na Mr Lee Parker. "
Grant Champkins-Howard, bụ onye DJ ugbu a n'okpuru aha Grant Dale, na Lee Parker, onye na-akụ pọmpụ, na-ekpe ikpe na Kingston Crown Court na June 2010, Onyeikpe Susan Matthews kwuru. Ha bụ "ndị ụgha oge ochie" n'ezie, ndị Metropolitan Arts and Antiquities Fraud Squad wakporo ihe onwunwe ha na 2008 wee jide n'aka ụgbọ mmiri nke McLaren na Westwood uwe na ihe ndị yiri ya, yana 120 adịgboroja akwụkwọ Banksy.
E mesịrị mara mmadụ abụọ ahụ ikpe na-ezighị ezi ọrụ Banksy.Mr. A gwara McLaren, naanị onye kere uwe mbụ nke Mmekọahụ na Seditionary dị njikere ịgba akaebe, ka ọ nyochaa ihe ndị ahụ ejidere wee rụtụ aka na-egosi na uwe ndị ahụ bụ adịgboroja: nha ezighi ezi nke mkpụrụedemede stencil, akwa na-ekwekọghị ekwekọ, iji YKK kama iji zippers akara Lightning. , eserese eserese na-ezighi ezi na teeti ọcha sijiri ochie.
Nwada King kwuru, "O were iwe." Ọ nwere mmetụta siri ike maka ichebe na ịgbachitere ọrụ ya. Ọ dị ya oké ọnụ ahịa.” Ka mmekọrịta dị n'etiti Mr McLaren na Ms Westwood daa na 1984, enwere ogologo oge dị elu n'etiti ha abụọ Esemokwu a edozibeghị, esemokwu ahụ mekwara ohere maka ndị na-ere ahịa adịgboroja.
Enyere Mr Howard na Mr Parker ahịrị n'okwu ikpe Banks, mana a kagburu ikpe uwe adịgboroja mgbe Mr McLaren nwụrụ na 2010 n'ihi na ọ bụ isi ihe akaebe maka ndị gbara akwụkwọ n'ọhịa.
Otú ọ dị, ọ bịara bụrụ na ezinụlọ Ms Westwood nwere ike n'amaghị ama kee ma ọ bụ kpalite ụlọ ọrụ punk adịgboroja." Emere m mbipụta ụfọdụ nke oge mbụ iji nweta ego iji malite onye na-eme mkpesa," Joe Corré, nwa Mr. McLaren na Nwada kwuru. Westwood, onye meghere uwe ime nke ya na azụmaahịa 1994.
Mazị Corré kwuru, sị: “Anyị rụgharịrị T-shirt ọkpụkpụ ọkụkọ na T-shirt 'Venus'.” A kpọrọ ha dị ka ụdị mbipụta nwere oke, mepụta ya na obere 100 iberibe, wee ree ya n'ahịa Japan. " Tupu mbipụta ndị a zuru oke ma dị oke ọnụ, mmeghari nke ọrụ nwere oke na silkscreens doro anya na T-shirts na-ebi akwụkwọ, ọsọ mmepụta na-adị ngwa ngwa, ọnụahịa ya dịkwa ọnụ ala.
Mazị Corré kwuru na Vivienne Westwood nyere ikike imepụtagharị ndị ahụ. McLaren were iwe. N'ime ozi email nke 14 Ọktoba 2008 degara otu gụnyere onye nta akụkọ Steven Daly, Mr McLaren dere: “Ònye kwere ka ha mee nke a? Agwara m Joe ka ọ kwụsị ozugbo degara ya akwụkwọ ozi .Enwere m iwe.”
Mazị Corré, bụ́ onye ghọrọ onye nduzi nke Vivienne Foundation n’oge na-adịbeghị anya, “na-eji ikike nwebisiinka nke ọrụ ya n’ụzọ ọmịiko akpata ego maka ihe dị iche iche.” O kwuru na ya ga-enyocha ka ọ ga-esi “kwụsị” adịgboroja. Ms King gara n'ihu na-alụ ọgụ maka ihe nketa Mr McLaren ma kwenyere na a na-ehichapụ ya ugboro ugboro n'akụkọ ihe mere eme nke ya.
Mr. Easton na Mr. Bowey's punk pistol azụmahịa na-aga n'ihu na-ere Ms. Westwood na Mr. McLaren ọrụ site na Etsy store SeditionariesInTheUK, ọtụtụ n'ime ha nwere akwụkwọ ozi nke asambodo sitere na Vivienne Westwood Company, bịanyere aka na ya, chepụtara na echekwara site Murray Blewett. Ndị a gụnyere uwe elu nwere akara nke nwere akwa Peter Pan na patches silk Karl Marx tụgharịrị, na jaket rọba nke Livaị sitere n'ike mmụọ nsọ.
Ịntanetị adịghị mma dị ka ọtụtụ ụlọ ahịa ahịa, na ha agaghị ekwu maka isiokwu a, mana ha kwuru na ha na-anọchite anya ọrụ na-enweghị ihe mgbochi, ya bụ foto nke onye nwe ya yi uwe na 1970s.
Maazị Gorman kwuru, "Ọ dị mkpa ịghọta na ọtụtụ ndị akwụna adịgboroja na-adị njikere ime ihe." Ha chọrọ n'ezie ikwere na ha so na akụkọ mbụ ahụ. Nke ahụ bụ ihe ejiji bụ, ọ bụghị ya? Ọchịchọ na-akwali ya niile.”